How I setup my Yaesu FT817 Radio and Homebrew Soundcard Interface to work Digital Modes

Image:  ZS1I Yaesu FT817 Radio

Image:  ZS1I Homebrew Yaesu FT817 Soundcard Interface

During the PEARS VHF/UHF Contest that took place in January 2025 I decided to setup my trusted Yaesu FT 817 Radio using my homebrew soundcard interface to work a few digital mode stations.  The FT817, 857 and 897 radios have a few settings that must be setup correctly,  if not then you will not be able to play with digital modes.

Please take note that the setup explained worked for me.  I did not use the CAT on this occasion as I need to buy the necessary accessory plug before I can use CAT. 

My Setup:  ( Yours might differ depending on the equipment you use)

Setting up the Computer and Software:

DO NOT switch the Yaesu FT817 or the computer ON.  

We first need to plug in all the cables.

Plug the USB cable coming from the Soundcard Interface into a USB port on the computer.

Plug the data cable coming from the Soundcard Interface into the Data socket of the Yaesu FT817. (Back of the radio.)

Now we can switch the radio on and then the computer.

The radio, computer and interface will now be be ON.

Start WSJT-X by clicking on the icon in your desktop or program start menu.

Go to File and then click on Settings then Radio.

CAT must be OFF  -  Rig = NONE

PTT Method = DTR Port:  Com3

Next click on Audio 

Here we will setup the Soundcard to be used

Soundcard:

Input:  Microphone (19-USB Headphone Set)  -  Left

Output: Speakers (19-USB Headphone Set)  -  Both

Click OK

Monitor Button should be green and round   0 should be green.  Radio and WSJT-X are now talking to each other.  If not check your hardware and sound on the computer.

Select:  Go to Control Panel. Click  on Hardware and Sound and then on Manage Audio Devices.  Sound window will open with Playback displayed.  Note: If you do not use VoiceMeeter then ignore those settings.

Playback:

Speakers:  19-USB Headphone -  Ready

Speakers:  Behringer USB - Disabled

VoiceMeeter Aux Input - Default Device

All others disabled

Recording:

Microphone: 19-USB Headphone - Ready

Line In:  Behringer USB - Disabled

VoiceMeeter Aux Output - Default Device

All others disabled

Managing Devices:

To set the level of the devices go back to Playback and double click on Speakers.  

Select Levels.  

 

Set levels as:

Speakers 83 

Main volume 83

 

To set the level of the devices go back to Recording and double click on Microphone (or Line In)  Select Levels.

 

Set levels as:

 

Microphone 82 

AGC MUST BE OFF!!

Go back to Playback

Select VoiceMeeter Aux Input (Double Click) 

Select Levels

Set levels as:

 

VoiceMeeter Aux Input = 100

Main Volume = 93

 

Click OK

Go to Recording and double click on Voice Meeter Aux Output

Select Levels

Set levels as:

VoiceMeeter Aux Output = 89

Wave in Volume = 100

Click OK

We completed the setup of sound on the computer.  Now we need to setup VoiceMeeter Banana

Open the VoiceMeeter program

 

Hardware Input 1 =  Behringer USB Audio

Hardware Out = Behringer USB Audio

 

Select the above if not displayed in VoiceMeeter.  Restart VoiceMeeter once selected.

 

Setting up WSJT-X Program:

 

I am not going to explain setting up the WSJT-X software as there is a complete manual explaining how to install and setup WSJT-X.  Please use the manual.

Setting up the Yaesu FT817 Radio to work digital modes:

Press F for more than 2 seconds

When in MENU rotate the SEL knob on radio to select menu 1 - 57

Set the following Menus:

# 3  9600 Mic = 50

# 7  Antenna = Front or Rear

#14  Cat Rate = 9600  (If used)

#24  Dig Disp = 0 hz

#25  Dig Mic = 70

#26  Dig Mode = user-u

#27  Dig Shift = 0 hz

#29  FM Mic = 50

#38  OP Filter =  OFF (CW or SSB Filter)

#39  PKT Mic = 50

#40  PKT Rate = 1200

#45  RF Gain/SQL = RF Gain (Digital)  SQL FM

#46  SSB Mic = 50

#51  Vox Gain = 50 (If used)

#52  Extend = ON

 

MODE =  DIG in SSB

             =  PKT in VHF/UHF

General Checks and Settings:

 

1.  Set MTR ALC  Press F once, select MTR ALC by pressing B.  This will reflect ALC when in TX mode.

2.  Check antenna Input = Front or Rear  MENU =  #7  (Select socket where your antenna is plugged in.)

3.  Check SWR Meter (PWR and SWR)

4.  Check receiving meter (WSJT-X)  Must be in the green between 40 - 60 dB.  If in the red adjust recording level - microphone to a lower setting until meter is in the green.

5.  Add  Fan to the back o the Yaesu FT817 to prevent the radio from overheating.

As said previously the above settings worked for my setup.  Your setup might differ but I am sure that some of the information in this article will be useful in setting up your Yaesu FT817, 857 or 897 radio to work digital modes.

 

You should now be able to work digital modes with the Yaesu FT817 Radio.  

Enjoy working digital modes in amateur radio!!

 

 

Images:  (Click on images for larger view.)

My Son Plaas in die Vrystaat - Christi ZS4CGR

 

Hier volg interessante inligting rondom die gebruik van hernubare energie soos verskaf deur Christi ZS4CGR.  Soos gesien kan word het hy die "doen dit self" rigting gevolg en wek hy genoeg krag op om sy hele huishouding en amateur radio hok van krag te voorsien.  Dankie Christi dat jy die besonderhede rondom jou "son plaas" en opbou na son energie en onafhanklikheid met ons gedeel het.

Opbou na Sonenergie en Onafhanklikheid – Christi ZS4CGR

My pad na sonenergie het in 2004 begin. Ons was van plan om op die banke van die Oranjerivier bokant Aggenys ’n plaas te koop. Op die grond was nog nooit twee bakstene op mekaar nie. Kaal landelike grond. 6500Ha groot.

Ek het my eerste panele 2 x 70W gekoop teen R2500, drie tweedehandse 104 Ah batterye en ’n 400W 'ou tipe' omsetter. Vir ’n jaar was dit ons enigste energie. Daarmee het ons een rekenaar kon bedryf vir maks. een uur per dag. Drie florescent 8W kar 'lead lights' was ons lig in die drie army tente wat ons 'huis' was. Stoof en karavaan vries kassie was op gas. Warm water uit die donkie was net wintertyd nodig. Terloops, somer temperature in die skaduwee het 48°C bereik en in die tente tot 57°C. So teen 3h soggens het die temperatuur onder 32° gedaal en kon ons gou bietjie slaap voor die son weer opkom.

Hierna het ek vir drie jaar in die landbou gewerk en toe stuk-stuk getrek na die familieplaas waar ons nou voltyds woon.

In 2006 het ek begin speel met alternatiewe warm water stelsels (wat ons nou nog gebruik). Swart PVC klas drie 25mm pyp, 200m lank, opgerol en bedek met tonnel plastiek (teen wind -wat so 4j hou - sien foto). Geen opgaar houer nie, die druk van die watertenk voer die pyp en ons moet sorg dat ons voor sononder klaar bad en stort. Dag temperatuur van die water is byna konstant op 75°C, heel bruikbaar, heel jaar deur, behalwe op swaar bewolkte dae (omtrent 7 dae per jaar), dan gebruik ons warm water uit ’n 50ℓ geysertjie wat van die sonstelsel af warm gemaak word. Ons het tans ook 'blou pype' vir die kombuis en veldstort. Warm water is hier volop.

Dit is die agtergrond.

Net eers hoe al my son panele werk.

Ons panele is in 'bondeltjies' gebou oortyd, op ’n middel paal (pivot) sodat as die paneel regop staan die onderkant so 300mm van die grond af is. Hulle kan dus roteer. Dan kan die rame waarop hulle gebou is ook vertikaal gekantel word. As hierdie dubbel beweegbare metode gebruik word, lewer elke paneel tot 160% van ’n vas gemonteerde paneel se krag (dus eintlik ’n besparing is panele). Tans het ek agt individuele 'bondels'.

En ja ek verstel hulle met die hand omdat ek die tyd het en die oefening nodig het. As ons weggaan, draai ek hulle Noord tot ons terugkom.

Hier is my huidige 8 + 3 bondels:

2x 70W 12V Voer lood-suur batterye vir radio’s en ander 12V toerusting
2x 80W 12V Voer LiPO batterye en 5kW omsetter
2x 80W 12V Voer LiPO batterye en 5kW omsetter
6x 80W 12V Voer LiPO batterye en 5kW omsetter
6x 80W 12V Voer LiPO batterye en 5kW omsetter
2x 325W 24V Voer LiPO batterye en 5kW omsetter
4x 180W 12V Voer LiPO batterye en 5kW omsetter
2x 170W 12V Voer lood-suur batterye vir radio’s en ander 12V toerusting
1x 335W 24V Op karavaan dak foto
1x 225W 24V Op bakkie 'canopy'
1x 170W 12V Op bakkie 'canopy'

Hierdie 'bondels' was een-een aangeskaf, nie alles gelyk nie. Op die oomblik is die maks. lewering so 2.2kW.

Ek het baie lank gewerk met ’n motor battery bank van tot 15 batterye. So 3 jaar terug het ek ’n ou lood-suur 48V stelsel geskenk gekry, maar die 2V selle (24 selle) het nie ’n jaar gehou nie, waarna ek besluit het om oor te gaan op LiPO batterye. Omdat ek nie die LiPO batterye geken het nie, was ek geadviseer om 2x 3.7kW batterye te installeer, maar toe ek gaan sit en my somme maak, het ek die verskaffer gekontak en dit vermeerder na vier. En net ’n maand later het ek nog twee by gekoop, dus ses batterye van 3.7kW. Totaal nou 22kW. Terloops, 2.2kW bron vir 22kW batterye? Dit werk,
so 3½ uur se vol son en my laaier skakel af, alles is vol. En in bewolkte weer hou alles so drie dae voordat ek die Lister se hulp moet inroep.

Nou hier kom ’n interessante punt. Ek het gou agtergekom dat ek steeds nie genoeg rugsteun krag het na my sin nie, maar nog twee batterye sou meer as R30k kos, wat ek nie wou uitgee nie. Lank geloop en dink. Sien, ek het ’n gas yskas wat teen 300W konstant loop (die koste van gas was ’n groot deel van die motivering om oor te gaan op LiPO). Dit beteken 19kg gas per maand teen ongeveer R500/m. Maar die ou yskas kom al amper 15j saam met my en werk goed. Na heelwat dink het ek besef dat die uitweg was om die yskas te vervang i.p.v. batterye te koop. Die nuwe yskas gebruik net 80W en is nie konstant aan nie. Dit het 'veroorsaak' dat ek ook ’n kas vrieskas by gekoop het wat ook net 80W benodig. Die twee saam het minder as een battery gekos en verder nog R500/m se gas bespaar. ’n Goeie kompromie en my krag benodig het omtrent halveer.

Al ons gedagtes moet die volgende patroon volg: as jy nie jou inkomste kan vermeerder nie moet jy jou uitgawes verminder en as ek om my rondkyk, sny sal ons moet SNY.

Vir ’n stoof gebruik ons meestal ’n twee plaat stofie, ’n Elektriese plastiese ketel gebruik minder energie as ’n glas/metaal ketel omdat ek nie die glas/metaal hoef te verhit nie.

En hier is ’n wenner. Koop vit jou LV ’n nuwe druk-kook-pot die elektroniese soort. Hoekom? Want hy werk op 2bar druk (i.v.m. die oues wat op 1.2bar werk), maak taai vleis binne minute sag en gaar en gebruik baie minder krag en tyd as enige ander metode. Voordeel? Die LV 'smile'. Wat wil ’n LV hê? Warm water in die badkamer (en kombuis) en ’n gerieflike kombuis (en baie tyd vir haarself).

Nou kom ons by beligting.

Op Swartbas (plaas) het on 'lead lights' gebruik teen 8W elk.
Op Klein Kortlaagte (plaas) kon ons nie die 'luxury' bekostig nie. (tussen die twee het ek al my kapitaal 'verloor' deur 'diefstal').

Hier, het ek begin met een loodsuur battery (hier is ’n Lister, maar diesel kos geld) en kon dus nie die gewone ligte aandryf nie. Ek het ligte 'gemaak', ek het plastiese versierings-balle met fasette gekoop (O.D. 30mm), ’n gaatjie in geboor en ’n wit LED daarin monteer, drie in ’n ry met ’n weerstand vir stroom beheer en siedaar, hy werk van 12V af en gebruik 20mA. Gou was die hele huis 'belig'. Toe die 'strip LEDs' op die mark kom (of het ek dit ontdek?), het ek sistematies al die ou LED-balle vervang. Teen 50mA per lig. Ons het lank so gewerk, ons kon alles sien en doen wat nodig was. Laas jaar het ek op ’n verbetering afgekom. ’n Vriend wou sy neon lig vervanging (LED strip) waarvan die glas gebreek het weggooi, gou het ek hom oortuig om dit vir my te gee. By die huis het ek die krok met 'cable ties' op ’n 'dowel rod' vasgetrek nadat ek dit getoets het en hy werk nou nog in ons werkkamer (18W). Dit het my weer op ’n ander idee gebring. Ek het vir my van die neon vervangings buise (8W) gaan koop, ou geblaasde lampe se bajonet stert afgehaal en bedraad op die LED buis. Nou hang hulle vertikaal in die plek van gewone lamp aanhegtings en dit werk goed.
Nou-ja, dit alles kom oor die verloop van 18 jaar, sien, dis nie nodig om ’n hoop geld op een slag uit te gee nie, maar maak net ’n begin, dit sal self kleintjies kry, nes radio’s en antennas.

73

Christi ZS4CGR 

 

Fotos  (Klik op fotos om te vergroot.)

 

Radio ZS Article - Upgrading of the 145.750 Mhz Still Bay Repeater in the Southern Cape

 

Image:  On the tower - Jasper, ZS1WT; back - Danie, ZS1DL and Johannes, ZS1XL; middle - Henry, ZS1SB; Eben, ZS1EP; Nick, ZS1ZAN and Viv, ZS1VIV; front - Attie and Johann, ZS1AAC

Herewith a PDF EXTRACT of the article published in Radio ZS relating to the upgrading of the Still Bay repeater in the Southern Cape.

Eskom Loadshedding Solutions - Raspberry Pi Router/Modem "Watchdog" Project: Testing Internet Connection (Part 3)

 Image:  ZS1I AllStar Hub, 145.550 Echolink Simplex Link and ZS-Link SVXLink Reflector

With the recent loadshedding experienced I decided to consolidate several projects that were left hanging due to other more urgent projects or the fact that loadshedding was suspended and there was not really a need to finish such projects.  Well this time around I decided to make a list of unfinished projects and whether loadshedding is suspended early, these projects must be finalized irrespective if there are other more urgent projects.  One such project is the Raspberry Pi Router/Modem "Watchdog" Project.  I received requests from fellow radio amateurs to provide more information setting up the "Watchdog" and what was the end result in connecting it to an AllStar node and LTE Modem/Router. Part 1 and Part 2 is available by clicking on the specific part.

What is the project all about?  In short I needed an automated “watchdog”  to tell me if the Internet was up  or down and if  down to automatically connect to the Internet once it is back up and running again especially during and after loadshedding. (power outages)  If it is up then there is no further action to be taken. In Part 3 I will be looking at a few Linux and Setup commands for this project.  Once you finished constructing the "Watchdog" it is time to "wake it up" and getting it to watch the Internet for connection outages or confirm that it is up and running.

Let's first look at our connections that must be made for the "Watchdog" to work correctly.  

Cables needed:

1.  12 v DC Cable to power the "Watchdog"

2.  Ethernet Cable coming from the Router/Modem that you will be monitoring.

3.  Relay Control Cable.  One end of the cable connects to the Router.  The other end connects to 12v DC going to the Router and the third connection is to the "Watchdog" relay connection which is  Com - NC wired.

4.  Internet "Watchdog" Bridge Plug -  This is needed when the "Watchdog" is not connected to the Router/Modem.  It is just a wire bridge to give  12 v DC connectivity.

See images for clarity in this regard.

Once you have connected all the cables it is time to switch the unit on.  Wait a few minutes and then retrieve the IP address by either looking in the router/modem or by using software to retrieve the IP address. 

I use VNC to get access to the Raspberry Pi.  Enter  the IP address in VNC as well as your username and password which you must have created when installing the OS.  Once you have logged into the Raspberry Pi you must install Python 3.11.1 if not already installed.  If not installed do a Google search on how to install Python on a Raspberry Pi.  We need Python 3 to run the Internet Watchdog program.  Once Python is installed and you rebooted we need to update the Raspberry Pi.   Open a Terminal window in the Raspberry Pi.

Enter:

$ sudo apt update (enter)

When all the updates are downloaded and installed use clear and enter to clean the terminal window.

We will now write the two script files as shown in Part 2.   Keep Part 2 open in another tab of your browser as we will copy the contents of the two script files into two separate files.  To create each file you will have to follow the procedure listed underneath.

$ sudo su (enter)

$ cd /home/pi (enter)

To create and write a new Python script with Nano:

In the terminal window use:

$ nano filename.py  In our case replace filename with relay_test.py

Copy and paste the relay_test.py in the second browser to relay_test.py  Once copied

press CTRL+S to save the file.

press CTRL+X to exit Nano and come back to the terminal.

Your relay_test.py script file is now created.  Do the same with the relay_final.py script file.  Also open  relay_final.txt and relay_test.txt files by using the above nano method.  Do not copy and paste anything in the relay_final.txt or relay_test.txt files.  Just save them without anything in it.

 

The four files you created will be listed in the /home/pi directory.

You should still be in root@raspberrypi:/home/pi#

Use ls command to list the files.  The files will be listed as:

relay_test.py 

relay_final.py

relay_final.txt

relay_test.txt

Now go to the Applications Menu of the Raspberry Pi (far left top of the screen)

Look for Thonny Python under programming.

Open Thonny

The Thonny Python Program will open 

Click File - Open - select relay_test.py

Click OK

relay_test.py script file will open in Thonny Python

Again click file

Select Open

Click on relay_final.py

Click OK

relay_final.py script file will open in Thonny Python

Time to test if the Internet is UP or DOWN using relay_test.py script

In the Thonny Python Program select relay_test.py  The script has a false IP address to simulate that the Internet is down.

Go to the green round icon with the black triangle pointing  to the right

Click on the icon to run the relay_test.py script

Output will be displayed in Shell (Bottom of Thonny)

 

Output:

 

Date and Time is: 2025-02-24  15:44:12.382124

Testing Internet connection using Ping

PING 1.51.17.1 56(84) bytes of data

(Note the 1.51.17.1 is a fake IP address) to simulate  that the Internet is down)

--- 1.51.17.1 ping statistics ---

5 Packets transmitted, 0 received, 100% packet loss, time 135 ms

1.51.17.1 Internet connection failure

Turning off power to router

Waiting 1 minute to turn router back on

Power up and Reboot router

Nearly there - wait another while!  (Till  >>> appear)

It is clear from the above that we do not have a working Internet connection.  Internet is down!

 

You can replace the IP address in the above script with 8.8.8.8 and again test if the Internet is UP or DOWN.  The output would reflect that the Internet is UP.  No need to change the IP.  We will use the final script to get the "Watchdog" up and running.

 

Next we will use relay_final.py script to find out if the Internet is UP or Down. 

In the Thonny Python Program select relay_final.py 

Go to the green round icon with the black triangle pointing  to the right

Click on the icon to run the relay_final.py script

Output will be displayed in Shell (Bottom of Thonny)

 

Output:

 

Date and Time is 2025-02-24  15:59:35.420916

Testing Internet Connection using Ping

Ping 1.1.1.1 (1.1.1.1) 56 (84) bytes of data

64 bytes from 1.1.1.1; icmp_seq=1 ttl=57 time=66.0ms

64 bytes from 1.1.1.1; icmp_seq=2 ttl=57 time=48.6ms

64 bytes from 1.1.1.1; icmp_seq=3 ttl=57 time=47.4ms

64 bytes from 1.1.1.1; icmp_seq=4 ttl=57 time=48.5ms

64 bytes from 1.1.1.1; icmp_seq=5 ttl=57 time=45.8ms

 

---1.1.1.1 ping statistics ---

5 packets transmitted, 5 received, 0% packet loss, 12 ms

rtt vnin/avg/mox/mdev=45.826/51.277/66.032/7, 446 ms

 

1.1.1.1  Internet connection success.  No further input needed.

 

If the Internet was down the output would be similar to the output we received in relay_test.py simulation.

 

I drilled an inspection hole on the top of the cabinet to view the two LED's on the relay module.  Under normal operation there is a green led that indicates that there is power to the relay module.  There is another relay that will indicate whether the Internet is up or down. (See videos in Part 1)

If only the green power led on the relay module is on then the Internet is up and running.

If the green power led and a red led is lit on the relay module then the Internet is down.

You can now easily see if there is any issues by just looking through the inspection hole.

Finally:  We now need to setup the crontab -e file to run the final script every 10 or 30 minutes (you choose the time interval)

 

Open a Terminal window

Type after $:

crontab -e (enter)

 

Once file open go to the last entry line in the file and enter the following:

 

#*/10 * * * * python3 /home/pi/relay_final.py

#*/2 * * * * python3 /home/pi/relay_final.py >> /home/pi/relay_final.txt 2&>1

#*/2 * * * * python3 /home/pi/relay_test.py

#*/2 * * * * python3 /home/pi/relay_test/py >> /home/pi/relay_test.txt 2&>1

 

We have four options/settings:

 

1.  Running relay_find.py script every 10 minutes

2.  Running relay_find.py script every 2 minutes with output to relay_final.txt file

3.  Running relay_test.py script every 2 minutes

4.  Running relay_test.py script every 2 minutes with output to relay_test.txt file

 

Note:   Options 2 and 4 should not be activated to run continuously as output data can quickly fill up your SD Card.  Just use it for test purposes only.

 

The relay_final.py script will run every 10 minutes and should be activated by removing the # in front of  */10 ------ etc

 

If you go to cd /home/pi (enter) you will see the text (txt) files listed.  If you activated relay_final.py and relay_text.py while testing crontab you can click on the txt file and you will be able to view output when running either script file.  Only run one script txt file at a time.  How ever there is another way to check if crontab ran successfully.

In Terminal use:

grep CRON /var/log/syslog

Note:  After testing script files and txt files ensure that only relay_final.py is activated.  The three other crontab entries should be de-activated by putting an # in front of each entry. 

To check crontab content after closing it you can type in Terminal:

$ crontab -l

Crontab content will be displayed in the terminal window.

This final setup will activate the Raspberry Pi Router "Watchdog" and you will now be able to use this setup/project to automatically monitor the Internet continuously.

 

Enjoy!!

Video:

 

 

 

Images:  Click on images for larger view

 

Notifications relating to the SCP ZS-Link Network

Image:  DMR Bridge Dashboard  (Click on image for larger view.)

From time to time it is necessary to notify users of the SCP ZS-Link Network about certain changes/notifications relating to the network.  The following four notifications will be implemented with immediate effect.

Notification No 1:

The DMR Bridge, ZS Link HUB and 145.550 Mhz Simplex Link will be connected full-time to the Aasvoelkop Repeater via ZS1SB-L for the next two weeks. (22/2/2025 - 9/3/2025) 

Start time = 05h55 Monday to Sunday
End time = 20h00 Monday to Sunday

We currently have two radio amateurs visiting Hartenbos and this will enable them to connect to the Aasvoelkop Repeater via the 145.550 Mhz (88.5hz CTCSS Tone) Simplex Link.  We look forward to hearing you on the Aasvoelkop Repeater.   Enjoy the holidays! 

Notification No 2:

1. The DMR Bridge is up and running again after the modem/router decided it had had enough and I couldn't access the modem.  The modem had to be completely "reset" and set up again from factory settings.  Everything is now running as before.

2. The DMR users asked for a "Dashboard" so that they can monitor DMR Activities and also determine whether they are indeed connected to the Bridge.  Well you asked for it and here is the web address of the DMR Bridge in the Southern Cape.

http://dmrbridge.ddns.net/index.php

Notification No 3:

I want to make a request once again that we please pay attention to the gaps between overs on the repeaters as well as the rest of the networks.  If the gaps are too short, fellow radio amateurs cannot connect and disconnect to and from the Network especially when using the DMR Bridge.  Please let's look at the gaps = 6 to 8 Seconds between overs please.  We leave friends out in the cold and then they don't join/connect to us again in the Southern Cape.  We certainly don't want to give anyone the cold shoulder.  

Notification No 4: 

Please keep your overs short when using the Network. (3 min max)  I received several reports that if radio amateurs talk longer that 3 minutes the audio falls away on the DMR Bridge, HUB and 145.550 Mhz Simplex.  The audio only returns when the next person takes an over.  If you are near the 3 minute mark, release the PTT en then carry on and finish your over as soon as possible.  You can talk a lot in 3 minutes.  This will prevent audio falling away on the ZS-Link Network.

Zayn ZR3VO builds a new SHARI PiHat Hotspot for AllStar and Echolink

About a month ago Zayn ZR3VO of Orania decided to put his SHARI HAT together for the Raspberry Pi. Now what is the SHARI PI HAT?

A "Shari PiHat" is a small, self-contained radio interface board designed for amateur radio enthusiasts. 

The SHARI PiHat, developed by folks like N8AR (a known name in the ham community), is a plug-and-play solution for turning a Raspberry Pi into an Allstar node. Allstar, short for Allstar Link, is a VoIP system that connects amateur radio operators worldwide using software like Asterisk. The SHARI PiHat uses the SA818 radio module—a low-cost, embedded VHF/UHF transceiver—combined with a custom circuit board that fits onto the Raspberry Pi’s GPIO pins (hence "PiHat").

Here’s a quick rundown:

Versions: You can get it in VHF (144-148 MHz) or UHF (420-450 MHz), depending on your radio band preference.

Setup: Mount it on a Raspberry Pi, connect an antenna (it often comes with a basic one), plug in a USB cable for audio and power, and load software like HamVoIP (a popular Allstar image for Raspberry Pi).

Function: Once configured, it acts as a simplex node—transmitting and receiving on a single frequency—letting you connect to other nodes or repeaters on the Allstar network.

Power: It’s low-power (around 1 watt), so it’s best for local use or as a hotspot with limited range unless paired with an amplifier.

Construction:  Often sold as a kit, requiring some basic electronics assembly to solder components onto a printed circuit board.

Allstar Network:  To function, the Raspberry Pi needs to be loaded with Allstar software, which enables communication with other Allstar nodes on the network. 

Radio Amateurs use it for things like portable radio nodes, emergency communications, or just experimenting with digital ham radio. It’s DIY-friendly but requires some basic config—like setting your call sign and node number in the software.

I am not going to go into detail about the construction here as the images and video is self explanatory and you can find the complete construction manual by clicking HERE. 

Images:  (Click on images for larger view.)

 

 

100 000 Milestone reached in respect of the ZS Link Network Blog

Image:  Google  (Click on image for larger view)

It gives me great pleasure to announce that the ZS Link Network Blog has reached an all time viewers total (hits) of 100 278 this according to Google.  Is this of any significance?  Well if you like to brag or boast about  the Blog then many will say that this total is of no significance.  Others might be of the opinion that a 100 278 hits can easily be achieved.  Well if the Blog was about South African Politics, Socialites or posting controversial and  inflammatory content then sure you will reach a 100 278 hits in a day or two.  However this blog is about  Amateur Radio/Ham Radio/ Space/Science/Technology/DIY Projects/Homebrew/Nets/AREDN and too many other topics to mention here.  Now why mention this "achievement" here.

It is quite simple.  This Blog is not about the author.  It is about those radio amateurs who contributed direct or indirectly to many posts on this Blog.  You the contributes get all the recognition for keeping this Blog alive and interesting.  Something must be done correctly to reach the 100 000 hits milestone.  I would like to take this opportunity to thank every single radio amateur that contributed to the success of this Blog.  But not only the contributors, also all our readers or visitors from all over the world.  Hopefully in visiting the Blog many of our viewers have find something interesting to read and to view on the Blog.  I could have just kept quiet and say nothing about this milestone but that would be in direct conflict with the amateur radio code, very selfish and ungrateful.

Once again thank you to everyone that contributed to the ZS Link Network Blog in any way.  Lets continue and keep this Blog interesting and relevent.  As of this morning at 09h00 the 100 278 figure has increased to 101 418.

73

Johan ZS1I

Mossel Bay

South Africa

Images:  (Click on images for larger view.)