Invitation: "Saturday Afternoon Amateur Radio On-The-Air Activities"

I invite radio amateurs to join the "Saturday Afternoon Amateur Radio On-The-Air  Activities".  Please take note that this is not a structured / stereo type net or event. 

Activity - "Saturday Afternoon Amateur Radio On-The-Air  Activities from the Southern Cape Area"
Day of the Week - Saturday Afternoons
Time - 15h00 SAST
Place -  ZS Link Network

This afternoon's topic:

Which of the antennas is the better antenna with a higher gain? Slim - Jim or J-Pole Antenna. 

Join this amateur radio activity this afternoon.

Ek nooi radioamateurs uit om aan te sluit by die "Saterdag Middag Amateur Radio Aktiwiteite Op-Die- Lug". Neem asseblief kennis dat hierdie nie 'n gestruktureerde / stereotipe net of geleentheid is nie.

Aktiwiteit - "Saterdag Middag Amateur Radio Aktiwiteite op-die-lug vanuit die Suid-Kaap gebied"
Dag van die week - Saterdagmiddae
Tyd - 15:00 SAST
Plek - ZS Link Network

Vanmiddag se onderwerp:

Watter een van die antennas is die beter antenna met 'n hoer wins?  Slim - Jim of J-Pole Antenna.  

Sluit gerus aan by die amateur radio aktiwiteit vanmiddag.

 

List of Stations connected to the ZS Link Network for the above activity:

(Click on image for larger view.)
 

How to setup and run Qtel - the QT Echolink Client on Linux Mint 22 (Wilma)

More and more radio amateurs are moving away from the Windows OS and many are using Linux Mint.  I have successfully used Linux Mint for several years now on three different machines currently in the Shack with no major issues.  Now what is Linux Mint.  In short Linux Mint is a community-developed Linux distribution based on Ubuntu. First released in 2006, Linux Mint is often noted for its ease of use, out-of-the-box functionality, and appeal to desktop users. It comes bundled with a selection of free and open-source software.  I successfully run amateur radio software on the machines currently operational in the Shack.

I do have Echolink installed on a Windows machine but not on any of the Linux Mint machines.  Nowadays I am not a great fan of Echolink but must admit that it can come in handy at times. Having said that, AllStarLink is my preferred VOIP with far better audio quality than Echolink. I however decided to install the Qtel Echolink Client on Linux Mint 22 (Wilma) as a backup should the need arise.  I could have gone for the traditional Echolink install using WineHQ but was not in the mood to fiddle around with Wine at the time.

I had to fiddle around a bit with the settings of the computer's internal Soundcard and also opening the Router Ports but that you also do when setting up the Windows version of Echolink.  For those interested to run Echolink on Linux Mint here is how I setup the computer, software, hardware and Internet Router.

Qtel Echolink Setup:

Computer:  Dell Optiplex 990 (i5-2500S 64 Bit 8 Gig Ram)

Operating System:  Linux Mint 22 Wilma

Echolink Software: Qtel Echolink Client V1.2.4

Router:  Huawei B525 LTE

SoundCard:  Internal Souncard - HDA Intel PCH

 

Download and Installing Qtel in Linux Mint:

 

Go to Menu - Adminstration - Synaptic Package Manager - Open - Enter Password - Search - Qtel - Search.

Select Package - Qtel and Qtel-icons - Apply

Qtel will be installed as well as icons.

Reboot PC after installation.

 

Qtel Setup:

 

Go to Menu - Internet - Right click Qtel -Add Qtel to desktop - Click on Qtel Icon - Once open go to - Settings - Qtel Settings - User Info - Complete Info.

 

Callsign = ZS1I - L

Name = Johan

Password = XXXXX

Retype Password = XXXXX

Location: Mossel Bay

Network:

Servers: servers.echolink.org

Sound:

Microphone Audio Device = alsa:default

Speaker Audio Device = alsa:default

Sampling Rate = 48 000

Leave rest untouched - Default

Click OK

You should be ready now to open the ports for your router to work the outside world via Echolink.

Go to your Router: 

 

I use a Huawei B525 LTE Router

In you browser type in IP address of you router - 192.168.8.1

Login using username and password

Once logged in see images below for and indication of what needs to be changed in order to open the ports for Echolink.

 

 

Remember to reboot your router after you completed the setup.

You are now ready to use the Qtel Echolink Client.  We just need to setup the computer's Soundcard.

Optiplex 990 Soundcard Setup:

 

 

On the bottom right of your computer's screen, left click on  the speaker icon.  Window will open.  Click on sound settings. 

Ensure all slides are fully open

Leave other settings as default

Test sound - Click on Button and listen for audio.  If you hear audio on the left or right speaker your computer's soundcard is working.

Time to look at alsamixer:

Open Terminal

We use alsamixer - alsa sound control

Type alsamixer at the $ prompt

$ alsamixer  (enter)

Alsamixer V1.2.9 will open

Ensure that all sliders are set to maximum in the beginning.  Can always later re-set the sliders for good quality audio.

Card:  HDA Intel PCH

Chip:  Realtek ALC269VB

Select F6 - Sound Card - default:0

HDA Intel PCM - Select - Esc

NB - Ensure that Line Out is 00

NB - Ensure that Rear Mic is 00

I use the internal Soundcard of the Dell Optiplex 990 Computer

Qtel Echolink Client should now be working

Go back to Qtel

Go to Conferences and select *Echotest* 

Right click and select  "Add Selected to Bookmarks"

Echotest will be added to bookmarks and show on Qtel main screen.

Add your favorite stations as above

To connect double click on bookmark station or right click and connect to selected.

Echotest server will now be active once connected.

Congratulations Qtel Echolink Client is now working on Linux Mint.

Enjoy!!

Let's fix the broken uBitx V3 HF Radio aka "Red Ferrari" of Jacobus ZS1JDJ

Image:  The "Red Ferrari" uBitx V3 HF Radio.  (Click on image for larger view.)

Jacobus ZS1JDJ recently acquired a  uBitx V3 HF Radio aka his "Red Ferrari".  He used the radio a few times and wanted to add the headphone socket in order to utilize headphones with the radio.  He followed the guidelines obtained from an Internet site only to find out later that the Audio IC  (TDA2822) let out the magic smoke.  He ordered several new TDA2822M IC's, removed the wiring to the headphone socket and inserted a new audio IC only to find that it also went up in smoke.

He contacted the author for assistance on how to fix the issue.  The author was willing to assist but he had to do all the soldering and de-soldering himself under supervision of the author.  This is how an Elmer share his knowledge after many years of constructing and fixing equipment.  Unfortunately due to bad eyesight the Elmer is not working on radios anymore.

Jacobus ZS1JDJ visited the author and the "Red Ferrari" was opened on the workbench to see why the IC let out the magic smoke. I told Jacobus to de-solder the IC and provided a IC socket to make it easier to remove the TDA2822M in future.  We gathered all the information on how to solve the issue from the Internet and also from the uBitx website.  

There seem to have been a problem with certain IC's that does not "enjoy" 12 - 15 volt DC (Pin 2 VCC.)

Herewith a short explanation of the problem: 

 uBitx v3 Radio audio IC damaged after trying to connect phones

Damaging the audio IC (TDA2822M) on a uBitx v3 when connecting headphones is a known issue caused by shorting the audio output to ground during jack insertion. The TDA2822 chip in the v3 is highly sensitive to this, particularly if using a mono plug in a stereo jack, which shorts the ring to the sleeve. 

Here is a guide to diagnosing and repairing this issue based on common uBitx community solutions.

Symptoms of a Blown TDA2822M:

No audio from the speaker.
The TDA2822 chip gets extremely hot when the radio is powered on.
Sidetone still works (if the issue is isolated to the receiver audio path).
A faint, distorted signal or a loud hum. 

Repairing the Audio IC:

Remove the damaged IC. The easiest method is to carefully cut the legs of the 8-pin TDA2822 chip, then use pliers to remove the remaining pins one-by-one while heating with a soldering iron.
Install a Socket: It is highly recommended to solder an 8-pin DIL (Dual In-Line) socket onto the board rather than soldering the new chip directly. This makes future replacements much easier.
Replace with a Robust Component: Replace the TDA2822 with a new one. Some builders have found that specific brands (like "WX" branded chips) are more prone to failure, so sourcing a high-quality replacement is advisable. 

Preventative Measures (Essential Mods):

To prevent this from happening again, you should implement one of these modifications:

Add Series Resistors: Add a 4-ohm to 8-ohm, 1/2-watt resistor in series between the uBitx output and the headphone jack TIP.
Rewire the Jack: Wire the headphone jack as a mono jack (using only the tip and sleeve) to prevent the shorting that occurs when a stereo plug is inserted.
Voltage Regulation: The TDA2822 on the v3 runs close to its maximum voltage. Providing a 6v-9v regulator for the audio stage can prevent future failures. 

Troubleshooting:

If the replacement does not fix the issue, ensure the capacitor C77 (470µF) was not also damaged by the surge, and verify that the 12V supply is not exceeding 15V, as the TDA2822 is fragile near its voltage maximum.

Wiring up the headphone jack

It is recommended that when you wire up the headphone jack, you do not wire it up as a stereo jack.  Inserting a mono plug into a jack wired for stereo (i.e. when connections are made to both the tip and to the ring connectors) will likely result in a short from the ring to shield when the plug is inserted.  Several constructors have blown up their TDA2822M audio output IC as a result of exactly this scenario.

If you do want to wire the supplied headphone jack as a stereo jack, add a series 8 ohm 1/2 watt resistor  (or perhaps a 4 ohm resistor) between the uBitx board and your phone jack.  This should safely prevent any damage, though it will reduce the maximum available audio slightly through the headphone jack.

Reference:

Wiring up the audio connector so that you can also use an internal speaker

The headphone jack can be wired to connect normally to an internal speaker, until a plug is inserted in the jack, whereupon the audio is routed to the headphones.  Again, it is recommended that the jack be wired up for a single channel (using the tip only) to avoid problems when inserting a mono plug into the stereo connector.

The jack’s tip has two connections (one is switched off when you insert a plug).  Because the sidewall on the jack is “see through” you should be able to see how this works in practice when you insert a 3.5mm plug into the jack. Wire the terminal that is switched off when a plug is inserted into the headphone jack, to the positive terminal of your speaker.   If your speaker’s polarity is not marked, it won’t matter which terminal on the speaker is connected to the jack.

The negative terminal of your speaker should be soldered to the shield connection on the headphone jack.  To be clear, the wire from the main board and the wire from the negative terminal of your speaker are both soldered onto the rear (shield) tab of the stereo jack.
 

More information from the uBitx Web-Site about the issue:

TDA2822 problems - Reasons for failure  CLICK HERE. 

Now how did we solve the problem of the "Red Ferrari"?

1.  Removed the blown IC

2.  Fitted a IC Socket

3.  Removed the 470µF capacitor (C77) and replaced it with a 100uF capacitor

4.  Lifted the leg of  pin 2 of the new IC which will be used to feed 7.5v DC to the IC

5.  Installed a LM2596 DC-DC down converter module which was set to 7.5v DC

6.  Connected the +7.5 v to pin 2 of the IC TDA2822M and pin 4 ground to the ground connection.

See images below for the above modifications

Jacobus fired up the "Red Ferrari" and tested it thoroughly.  Problem solved!

Comment from the author (Elmer):  

I am sure that Jacobus ZS1JDJ learned a lot from this event. (magic smoke release)  Whenever anybody want to make a modification to a radio you must ensure that you know exactly how to do it.  Google is your friend.  Read as much about the issue as possible. The cons and the pro's.  Do not be in a hurry.  If not sure consult an Elmer before the smoke release.  Any modification being done needs the correct equipment.  If you do not have the correct "tools" or test equipment forget about the modification or let an experienced homebrewer assist you.  Always have spare components available before you start.  As stated before due to bad eyesight the Elmer is not working on radios anymore.

Images:  (Click on images for larger view.)

’n Ongewone Dubbel Frekwensie Antenna - Christi ZS4CGR

(Klik op foto om te vergroot)

Hulle sê as jy ’n probleem het, moet jy eerste die probleem definieer en dan vir die antwoord soek. Nou wat is die probleem? Dat ek twee frekwensies uit een radio wil aandryf wat te vêr uitmekaar is vir een antenna en (te naby is vir ’n 'splitter'). Hi!

Nou verskoon maar die foto’s, want my werkstafel is of my hok se tafel of my kombuis/eetkamer tafel.

Die probleem is met Burg-B / Marnet se frekwensies. Die simpleks frekwensies lê van 67.000 tot 67.125MHz terwyl die herhalers lê tussen 69.925 tot 78.6625MHx. met ’n 'off. Set' van tot 7MHz. Bitter wyd vir ’n maer mobiele antenna om te dek. Ek het voorheen reeds ’n antenna gebou wat tot vyf frekwensies van 2m tot 70cm gedek het, so ek moes nou net ’n eenvoudiger een bou met wat ek beskikbaar het.

Ter sefdertyd wil ek dit ’n 'verskuifbare mobiele antenna maak, met die mins moontlike uitgawes.

Laas toe ek by ’n smidswinkel was, het ek daar 2mm ronde plaatjies uit die afval gebedel met die om gly skarniere vir my verkyker staander te maak. Met een van hulle en ’n paar stukkies 20mm plat yster het ek ’n basis gemaak vir die monteerstuk van die antenna. Onder die voetjies het ek duodenum magnete monteer. Ek het nogal baie uitgesien na die magnete vanaf die 'communikasie winkel' (ek mag nie adverteer nie) daar uit Centurion. Nou sal julle verstaan hoe teleur gesteld ek was toe my pakkie hier op die plaas aankom en een of ander kluitkop het die magnete uit die pakkie gesteel. Vroeg die volgende dag kontak ek die winkel en verduidelik en gee foto’s van die beskadigde pakkie, nou moet ek maar kyk wat gebeur waar ek weer geld vir magnete sal kry, want om hulle nou te vervang beteken hulle kos my nou drie-maal die eerste prys (courier ingesluit).

’n Pluimpie vir my verskaffer: Daardie selfde middag ontvang ek ’n kennisgewing dat die vervangings magnete reeds by die koerier is, wat ’n vreugde. So inplaas dat my projekkie uitgestel word, is die nuwe pakkie die volgende dag hier en ek kan laai waai.

 (Klik op fotos om te vergroot)

Die magneet basis se basis Montering van die magnete.

Kyk mooi, die bout wat die magneet monteer het ’n plastiese insetsel wat deur die staal gaan en langer is as die plaat dikte, aan weerskante is daar wassers om die plastiek effe vas te druk in die staal. Die doel is om te kompenseer vir skuins vlakke op ’n voertuig sodat die magneet maksimum kontak op die voertuig het, die magneet kan dus effe kantel.

 (Klik op foto om te vergroot)

 Terloops, die magnete het 'versinkte onderkante en die boutjies (5mm) het versinkte koppe.

Terloops, die midband antenna het ek verlede maand van dieselfde winkel afgekoop, diens is puik produk is puik prys is baie goed en aflewering is meestal die volgende dag (hier na my toe).

En so lyk die antenna basis, as jy eers agtergekom het hoë hy in mekaar sit, is die ontwerp eintlik oulik en goed.

 

(Klik op fotos om te vergroot)

Nou vir die truuk om twee antennas te monteer (ek sal later die VNA prente plaas). Vir die montering het laas keer ’n geelkoper skyf gebruik, maar dit kos geld en ek sou moet Bloemfontein toe gaan vir die materiaal. Dis, maak ’n plan.

Ek wou eers soek vir ’n geelkoperstaaf sodat ek skroefdraad in die gaatjies kon sny, maar toe vang my oog ’n stuk gegalvaniseerde 'ready bar' (wat is dit in Afrikaans) en ek sien ’n nuwe plan.

(Klik op foto om te vergroot)

Hy moet maar groot bly dan kan julle makliker sien wat ek gedoen het. Ek moes die gaatjie op die antenna basis uitboor na 3,2mm sodat ek ’n sterker middel-stuk kon gebruik. Die staak het 3mm gaatjies 100mm uitmekaar en een in die middel. Op die foto het ek nog SS-moere om makliker te werk maar ek het hulle later vervang met selfsluitmoere.

As grondvlak gebruik ek die bokant van ’n 210ℓ drom wat ek op ’n staander met drie pote monteer, dit maak toets werk baie makliker al is dit nie ’n ideale opset nie. Die magneet staander moes ek omtrent 50mm verhoog omdat die kabel uit die antenna monteerstuk nie haaks uitkom nie en ek dit nie skerp wil buig nie

 (Klik op fotos om te vergroot)

Hier is die drie latte waarmee ek getoets het. Van bo na onder No 1, 2 en 3.

No 1 kom saam met die antenna, 2 Is ’n gewone 51" lat en No 3 is ’n gewone SS-vervangings lat.

(Klik op foto om te vergroot)

Net om ’n idee te gee van hoe die kombinasie lyk.

Goed, hier is nou die reeks VNA prente, ek sal hulle volgens nommer bespreek. Eerste net die enkel latte direk op die basis gemonteer, sonder die T-stuk.

(Klik op fotos om te vergroot)

Lat 1

Lat 2

Net om te wys waar elkeen resoneer sodat dit vergelyk kan word met die verandering wanneer in kombinasie. Die T-stuk verleng die antenna met ongeveer 100mm, wat die resonante punt ook sal skuif.

 

Lat 3

Nou vir die kombinasies. Moet nie na die resonante frekwensie kyk nie, die idee is om te sien wat gebeur as ek twee stokke gelyk monteer. Onthou die twee antennas moet tussen 2 en 11MHz uitmekaar resoneer (wanneer dit finaal ingestel moet word)

Latte 1 en 2.

 

Latte 1 en 3.

Latte 2 en 3.

Latte 1 en 3 met die frekwensie grense aangedui.

Laastens lat 1 alleen op die T-stuk. (vlg. Met eerste VNA prent waar lat 1 direk op die montering is.) Omtrent 2MHz verskil.

Die volgende taakie gaan wees on die twee latte uitmekaar (dus parallel) te hou en daarna om die T se onderste been te verstewig. Dan kom die 'langpad toets'

Christi ZS4CGR

SSTV Experiment - Expedition 72 - ARISS Series 26 = Period: 11 April 2025 to 16 April 2025

 

As I write this article the SSTV Experiment has closed. The Theme this time around was:  "Humans in Space"

What did the Experiment entail?

Expedition 72 - ARISS Series 26 "Humans in Space" mission
April 11-16, 2025 – "Humans in Space"
April 12 is the International Day of Human Spaceflight so, what better theme for the April 11-16 Slow Scan TV transmissions.
Start: Friday, April 11 1700 GMT
End: Wed, April 16 1430 GMT
Frequency: 145.800 MHz FM (+/-3.5 kHz Doppler Shift)
The callsign is RSØISS, frequency is 145.800 MHz, and the mode is PD120. (Transmission cycle 2 minutes on, 2 minutes off)

Many FM rigs can be switched to wide and narrow deviation FM filters. For best results you should select the filter for wider deviation FM. Handhelds generally have a single wide filter fitted as standard.

Reports are requested: please send ARISS uploading your decoded pictures in the official ARISS SSTV gallery: https://www.spaceflightsoftware.com/ARISS_SSTV/

ARISS uploading are closing Saturday, 19 April 2025

Useful information to receive the pictures can be found here: https://amsat-uk.org/beginners/iss-sstv/

Follow ARISS on X for official updates during the event https://x.com/ARISS_Intl

I am pleased to announce that there was plenty of interest and participation in the Southern Cape and South Africa in the SSTV Experiment - ARISS Series 26.

Why download SSTV images from the ISS?

Every radio amateur that participated set his/her own goals and has a reason for participating in the experiment.  Unfortunately I do not have all the information on hand why some radio amateurs download images.  During this event the "modus operandi" differ substantially from Series 23. The current  TX cycle 2 min on, 2min break and 2min on as well as the fact that all passes took place at night time and the trajectory of the passes differed was challenging especially for inexperienced operators.  This time around two radio amateurs participated for the first time ever.  I am sure they learned from this experience and that they will download good clean images in the future.

Herewith some images (Click on images to enlarge) of the radio amateurs that participated in the ARISS SSTV Experiment:

Bernie ZR1ACP - Agulhas 

Christi ZS4CGR - Luckhoff

 

 

Francois ZS1Q - George (New Participant)

 

Gerrit ZS1KLO - Rheebok, Mosselbaai 

(Image download with a HT and Rubber Duck Antenna while Gerrit was in Pretoria)

 

Jaco ZR1JPA - Langebaan (New Participant)

 

Jacobus ZS1JDJ - Da Nova, Mosselbaai

 

Johan ZS1I - Mossel Bay

Rulhof ZS4RM - Bloemfontein